When deciding to undertake a one-month hike, I wanted to give myself an objective to achieve. After a lot of deliberating, I opted for Luxembourg. More specifically, the region of Mullerthal, close to the country’s eastern border.
The Mullerthal province, often referred to as Luxembourg’s little Switzerland, is still relatively unknown despite it’s official label of “Leading Quality Trails – Best Of Europe”, awarded by the European Rambler’s Association.
The region has set up a network of trails of varying difficulty and terrain, and it would be my objective to hike the main 3. Adding up to 122 kms, they display a variety of terrain, ranging from open fields to bizarre rock formations and ancient forests. Here is my review of the these trails.
Mullerthal Trail #1
Starting in the city of Echternach, trail #1 is 38 kms long and an easy hike overall. I set up camp in the Camping Officiel of Echternach and split the hike in 2 parts. I will be using the bus system (entirely free of use) to get me back from my midway point in Moersdorf.
Starting Point: Echternach
The city of Echternach is picturesque and compact, and offers several possibilities in terms of supermarkets, restaurants and bars. A nice change from the small towns I passed on my way here which had no such options.
You will find several options in terms of accomodation. I of course went for the camping. Camping Officiel is located next to trail #2 and is adequate in terms of comfort and facilities. It could do with modernizing the shower and bathroom arrangement however.
The Trail
I walked the 37 kms counterclockwise, starting in the centre of the city to quickly climb into the hills overlooking the lake.
The small trail quickly gives way to larger paths which were being used to carry lumber out of the forest. I come across several trucks along the way which detracted from the otherwise pleasant forest experience I am having. This may have to do with the season though.
Having passed through the forest of Hierberbesch, I step out of the forest to enter long stretches of cultivated fields and then pass through the villages of Herborn and Mompach. Hiking along roads is not my favourite activity so I am happy to see the woods approaching after this 8 km portion of tarmac. This is the end of my hike for today however, as I quickly descend through the charming forest trails of Moersdorf to grab bus 485 back to Echternach.
Day 2 is a different story altogether. Having taken the bus back to Moersdorf, I am happy to see that the route is much more enjoyable, bringing back the small dirt trails I had become accustomed to while hiking over to Mullerthal. Following up small burbling streams, I make my way to the city of Rosport. The trail goes past the beautiful House of Tudor museum before quickly leading me back up into the forest.
After a scenic lunch in the hills, the trail leads me deeper into the woods where I discover stunning maze-like piles of boulders leading me back to the river Sûre. From here on, I slowly rejoin civilisation hiking back into the town of Echternach. This last stretch is calm, ending up in the city park near the Saint Peter and Paul church.
Conclusion
Of the 3 trails, this was by far the least interesting one. I do not want to dismiss it entirely however as there were very enjoyable parts along the route. If pressed for time however, this is the trail I would recommend skipping.
Mullerthal Trail #2
Mullerthal trail #2 is a 37 km long trail, rated as difficult. This has to do with the constant inclines and declines along the way.
Starting Point: Berdorf
I highly recommend staying in camping Martbusch, located on the edges of the forest, a few hundred meters from the trail. This is a very comfortable camping. It turned out to be the busiest camping I stayed at however, being a hotspot for camper vans and campers who had made the voyage to go rock climbing nearby.
Berdorf itself offers very little in terms of facilities, however. There is no supermarket but the local BnB does have a small selection of food stuffs to help you out. That being said, I highly recommend visiting the local cheese shop next to the church which offers a wide array of locally produced cheeses and yogurts.
The Trail
Trail #2 doesn’t beat around the bush. You immediately start off by heading down through spectacular rock formations including very tight and dark passages. A headlamp is highly recommended!
The trail offers a constant array of side paths that you can take to discover rock features or viewpoints along the way. It is the most playful of the 3 trails in that regard and I spend a lot of time adventuring down these paths. This usually includes climbing a lot of stairs however, so be warned!
The path eventually leads me to Mullerthal, the namesake village of this region. There, you will find beautiful cascades and probably the most popular feature of the province, the Schiessentümpel falls. This is the busiest area I came across in terms of other hikers.
On day 1, I follow the trail counterclockwise until the town of Scheidgen where I rejoin the city of Consdorf to grab bus 111 for a quick ride back to the camping.
Day 2 starts off back in the woods before leading me towards the town of Echternach where I am treated to beautiful views of the city. The path then leads back up into the forest to one of my favourite features: “Les Gorges du Loup” (The Wolves’ Throat), a steep and seemingly endless set of stairs leading you up a narrow gorge. From there on, it is a relatively easy hike back to Berdorf where I enjoy a celebratory drink with my friends.
Conclusion
If anything, Mullerthal Trail #2 is debatedly the most stunning and jaw-droppingly beautiful trail I have had the pleasure of discovering here. I say debatedly however as trail #3 also has a lot going for it…
Mullerthal Trail #3
Mullerthal Trail #3 is 37 km long and features meandering brooks, deep valleys, endless forest trails and medieval castles. The best way I can describe this trail is as romantic. A rather odd adjective to use but well-suited to the endless array of cascades and softly meandering paths you find yourself on.
Starting Point: Heffingen
I originally would have liked to camp in the city of Mullerthal itself but it had already closed its doors for the winter. I therefore had to go for another option. I was lucky enough to find a hotel in Heffingen, Hostellerie de la Vallée, located along conveniently along the trail. There is little in terms of shopping possibilities in the area apart from hiking 3 kms through the woods to the city of Larochette.
The Trail
I decide to hike the trail clockwise, using Mullerthal as my half-way point. The path leaving Heffingen quickly climbs into the woods, leading me along Larochette before a steep climb through the forest and the open fields. It eventually leads me to the city of Beaufort and its medieval castle. This has to be one of my favourite parts of the hike as it then joins a meandering brook which I follow for 4 kilometers before climbing higher into the woods. I am then led to the town of Mullerthal where I am supposed to get a bus back home. The road is blocked however so I have to hike an additional 4 kms to the town of Christnach to get bus 107 back to Heffingen.
The following day I get the same bus back and quickly rejoin the trail. It brings me back to the Schiessentümpel falls, this portion of the trail being shared with trail #2. The trail splits off again soon after, leading me deeper into the woods. I quickly arrive to other incredible water features and elevated wooden bridges undulating through the woods.
The woods keep changing in nature, from ancient oak forests to younger pine trees ones, the ground underfoot accordingly. This botanical diversity means that I am continuously amazed by my surroundings. I really have to force myself to look down at where I am putting my feet to avoid sliding on the exposed roots and rocks littering the path.
After a quick lunch near the city of Blumenthal, the trail leads me out of the forest. I find myself hiking through fields for about 3 kms before heading back into the forest for the final stretch back to my hotel.
Conclusion
I would put Mullerthal Trail #3 on par with trail #2. Despite being slightly less playful, the diversity I encountered make it one of the most memorable experiences of my one-month hike so far. It is also a much easier hike, enabling anyone to undertake it, regardless of fitness level.
Overall Conclusions
The Mullerthal Trail network delivers on its promise to giving a great hiking experience. The diversity of its landscapes, combined with its excellent signposted tracks delivers a seamless hiking experience justifying its label as “Leading Quality Trail – Best of Europe”.
I still have to experience the 75 kms of extra tours attached to the main 3 trails. Something I very much look forward to doing in the future!
Looking back, trail #1 was the only disappointment. This is especially true since I had just experienced trail #2.
All in all, I can’t encourage you enough to go experience these trails for yourself. Mullerthal has been an incredible experience and one I recommend you experience for yourself.
You can find additional information about the trails below:
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